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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.